This is their motto: “The sea belongs to us by right, recovering it is a duty.” I find this sentiment simultaneously ridiculous and sort of commendable. “We’re professionals.” Ricardo adopted a wounded expression. After six beers, three songs, and several attempted gropes, Ricardo offered his perspective on the issue. I attended the parade alone, and never interviewed the Comandante. In a country that has been fractured by protests, politics, and rampant racism, the sea is a uniting force and a symbol of hope. My favorite lede comes from The Guardian: “Sunlight glinted off the lake, a scenic expanse on the roof of South America, and Bolivia’s navy was busy perfecting the art of yearning.” Find the full story here.

So why not do a story on Bolivia’s navy, I thought. But I didn’t let details deter me.) The first order of business was making contact. Because Bolivia’s eastern border butts up against the Rio Paraguay, which flows into the Paraná River, which flows into the Atlantic ocean, well . Instead I forced myself to do man-on-the-street interviews. But if I had, maybe this is how I would have ended it.

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