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In the depths of a Wellington winter, it's all too tempting to dream of escape to that sunny Greek Island taverna of yore – the one where mis-matched rush-woven chairs are set around battered turquoise tables, where there's a peeling calendar on the wall, and beneath the bench of a rumpty open kitchen, the pots and pans are hidden behind an ancient floral curtain.
But alas, beyond a few silver icons and vintage advertising posters, Oikos Hellenic Cuisine offers no such sentimental indulgence in nostalgia.
Strategically located in Miramar, known affectionately by its Greek community as Little Athens, Oikos succeeds the long-closed Moyses as their local.
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READ MORE: *Cafe Chat: Franziska's little sister opens in the CBD *Restaurant review: Floriditas in Wellington *Restaurant review: Bastardo, Wellington The muted green paint scheme is a subtle nod to the decoration of the traditional mainland Greek tavern (as opposed to the blue of the Greek islands), and Moyses' dark wooden floor has been stripped back to a trendy Scandinavian shade of blonde, perhaps to match the expensive Hans Wegner replica chairs, dating from this Danish designer's Ming Chinese-inspired period in the late 1940s.
Besides being exemplars of East-West fusion, they're comfortable enough to see you through an extended ouzo drinking session. But while the dancing mixture does flow here, Oikos is not the place for a drunken oik to ask when the plate smashing begins.
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Warm, pudgy, freshly made pita bread, a world away from the plastic-wrapped leather sold in supermarkets, comes as a revelation.